BJCP Styles sorted by history: Wheat Beer - Weissbier
Hello! We continue our studies, and today we delve into one of the favorites for many people. But first, let’s introduce the category. In the classification of beer styles by history, we have the "Wheat Beer" category. As you can guess, these are beers that rely on wheat as a crucial ingredient. As we’ve mentioned before, most beers are made with barley malt. However, in this category, the percentage of wheat sometimes even surpasses that of barley. We’re talking about the following styles: Weissbier, Dunkles Weissbier, Weizenbock, Witbier, and American Wheat Beer. Since there are five styles and I can often find up to three representatives of each, I decided to analyze them one by one.
As you can see from the title, today we’ll start exploring these styles with Weissbier, or simply Weiss for those more familiar with it. I’d say that these days, I rarely drink a Weiss, but there was a time when I did. Perhaps it’s a classic gateway style into the world of beer beyond supermarket lagers. Let me philosophize a bit about why that might be. Many people who enjoy supermarket lagers rarely venture into other styles because they have a "beer snob" friend like me who force they to try an India Pale Ale (IPA). We haven’t discussed IPAs yet, but they’re a style known for their pronounced bitterness, which can overwhelm the palate of someone accustomed to supermarket lagers. Once startled, such consumers are unlikely to give in when someone suggests trying another beer again. On the other hand, if you offer them a Weiss, the experience can be quite different. A good Weiss is characterized by low bitterness, balance, and a distinctive creamy mouthfeel. It’s easier to win over a new palate with Weiss than with an IPA. Moreover, it’s a classic style from the German brewing school. Thanks to the internationalization of brands like Paulaner, Erdinger, Franziskaner, and others, this style can be found in many places around the world. This combination—an easy-to-drink beer widely available—has made Weiss one of the most popular styles globally.
When I moved to Lisbon in 2014, it took me some time to find a bar that offered beers beyond the commercial Portuguese options. However, a little over a month after my arrival (to me, that’s a long time, haha), I happily discovered the now-closed Cerveteca at Praça das Flores (don’t worry, Cerveteca still exists on Avenida de Paris—it’s well worth a visit!). According to my phone records, the first beer I chose to drink there was a Weiss. And not just any Weiss—it was a Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier served straight from the tap, in its branded glass, as tradition dictates. 🤤 These days, I don’t drink Weiss as often because I’m eager to explore new things, and I’ve had some disappointments in the craft beer world. A classic style doesn’t earn its prestige overnight. It’s refined and achieves its status on merit. Yet, when I tried more artisanal Weissbiers, I often encountered an overly sweet, cloying flavor that made it hard to finish even one glass. This session reminded me of the exuberance and flavor that classics of this style can contain.
Before diving in, here are some historical facts and curiosities about this style. Historically, beers produced by the Sumerians in Mesopotamia (3400 BC) already used grains that were predecessors of modern wheat. In the Code of Hammurabi (1700 BC), there are even specific instructions for brewing and serving wheat beers. As you can see, the use of wheat grains has deep roots in brewing history. While the Germans refined and popularized what we know today as Weissbier, its origin seems to trace back to Bohemia between the 17th and 18th centuries. This style's production reached neighboring Bavaria but was affected by the German Beer Purity Law (Reinheitsgebot) of 1516. This law stipulated that only barley malt could be used, under the notion that each grain should serve a specific purpose—wheat was for bread. However, a monopoly on wheat beer production was later granted, largely to limit the use of wheat for brewing. The problem? The monopoly, held by the Degenberg family, was so successful that the ruling dukes grew jealous of their profits. When the government finally reclaimed the monopoly, Weissbier’s popularity was already being overshadowed by lagers. Eventually, they resumed granting production permissions to breweries and monasteries. Weissbier only regained widespread popularity around the 1950s and has since garnered a global fanbase. Lastly, since Germans take their beer seriously, there’s a legal requirement for a beer to be called Weissbier (or Hefeweizen, or Weizenbier): it must contain at least 50% malted wheat in its recipe.
Now back to today’s evaluation. As you know, I’m trying to assess only BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program) comercial examples. Here, alongside the Weihenstephaner mentioned earlier, I also found the Ayinger Bräuweisse and the Schneider Weisse Original. And here came some surprises. According to the BJCP guide, Schneider Weisse is cited as one of the first to produce this style, albeit in a more amber color rather than the classic yellow/golden hue we know today (photo below). Intrigued, I was eager to try it, but unfortunately, it turned out to be the worst sample I tasted that day. Based on online reviews of its characteristics, I suspect the bottle I had might have had issues. Though it was still within its expiration date (valid until July next year—it’s usually bottled a year prior, meaning this bottle would’ve been filled in July 2024. I drank it on November 20th, about five months after bottling), the beer showed poor foam formation and retention—a major flaw for the style. Additionally, its aroma lacked the classic characteristics I’ll describe below. For this reason, I’m omitting the analysis of Schneider Weisse, as the sample didn’t seem to do justice to the label. Looks like I’ll have to visit Germany and drink it straight from the source to avoid any doubts! 🫠
Therefore, this review will focus solely on the samples from Weihenstephaner and Ayinger. So, what does the BJCP say about them? They are clear, refreshing German wheat beers with low hoppiness. Here, the yeast is the star. Both in flavor and aroma, we should easily detect the fruity banana esters and the clove-like phenolic profile typical of "weizen" yeast. In appearance, it showcased an intense golden hue, slightly cloudy, with a beautiful white head (medium formation and long retention). The turbidity is considered acceptable in this style, associated with the yeast and wheat malt usage—so, everything was perfect. The aroma brought banana esters to the forefront, with medium intensity. The clove phenolic profile was secondary, medium to low intensity, blending lightly with a faint spicy hop aroma. Additionally, when gently swirling the glass, hints of cereal and bread dough from the malt emerged. The BJCP considers hop aromas optional, so this was within the guidelines, although the clove could have been slightly stronger to meet the medium intensity expected for the style. In flavor, the banana and clove notes were even more pronounced than in the aroma but remained well-balanced, contrasting with the very low-intensity bitterness of the spicy hops. This left room for a delicate cereal sweetness, also at low intensity. The mouthfeel was creamy and velvety, with a medium body. The high carbonation brought a certain effervescence, enhancing the refreshing sensation. Overall, this beer exceeded expectations. It reminded me of why I used to enjoy Weissbier and how they were so useful back in the day when I began exploring different beers. It offers distinct layers of flavor with great balance, managing to be creamy, medium-bodied, and still refreshing. The yeast's fruity notes harmonize beautifully with the rich wheat base, and the carbonation makes the whole experience a party on the palate. Ah… I want another!
But not just yet—let’s move on to Ayinger. This beer had a slightly lighter yellow tone and was also cloudy. The head had medium to high formation with long retention and was very creamy. In aroma, I initially identified the malty cereal character more easily. Over time, the banana esters and clove phenolic profile became apparent but at an intensity below what is recommended for the style. I didn’t detect any hop aroma, but as mentioned, that’s optional for this style. On the palate, similar to the aroma, the raw malt grain flavor was more noticeable than the yeast’s banana and clove notes, which is considered a stylistic flaw. As a result, the balance leaned sweeter, reinforced by the very low hop bitterness. The mouthfeel was medium-bodied with high carbonation. Again, the creamy texture was achieved through the harmony of wheat and carbonation effervescence. In summary, this sample showed more pronounced stylistic flaws, as its primary characteristics (banana and clove) were relegated to the background. However, it still had a certain balance and was easy to drink.
After this description, it’s clear that the first beer adhered more closely to the BJCP style guidelines for Weissbier. This session was highly enjoyable and rewarding. To top it off, I prepared a “more German” dish that these beers perfectly complemented for a themed dinner. I made sausages with red cabbage and a potato salad with mayonnaise. No one needs to know the sausages were Greek—just a minor detail, haha! Next, we’ll continue reviewing this category with Dunkles Weissbier, which, spoiler alert, are the darker versions of Weissbier. Prost! 🍻
