BREWVENTURE#1 - Part 1 (Czech Republic)

Cheers, beer lovers! Yes, writing is definitely not the fastest content to produce. After posting a few stories during the trip, organizing the reels for the feed, the blog text ended up being last on the list. But here we go, let’s talk a little (or a lot) about these wonderful days spent in Prague and Pilsen. If you remember, this trip was a mix of opportunity and necessity. Opportunity because my girlfriend had a conference in Prague, so her hotel was paid for from Saturday to Tuesday. And necessity because the following weekend, I had to be in Romrod for the BJCP exam. Everything else—Pilsen, Nuremberg, Bamberg—just came about because of geographical privilege.

Trip and the first day in Prague

The first day was one of those days. We had to wake up at 4 a.m. to catch the first flight to Athens around 6 a.m. (heading south). Then, only around 9 a.m., we finally boarded the flight to Prague (heading north). By the time we got our luggage, took a taxi, and arrived at the hotel, it was practically lunchtime. We only stayed at that hotel on the first day, because for the rest of the trip, we'd stay at the hotel where the conference would be held. But on the first day, the hotel was right in the city center, next to the Franz Kafka statue.

We asked for recommendations at the hotel, and they suggested we go to "Kozlovna", a restaurant chain owned by one of the traditional beer brands, "Kozel". So we combined the useful with the pleasant—food and typical beer. It was really a good idea, great food, and the first Czech Lager in our stomachs. They offer the option of making a mixed drink with the "Dark Lager" and "Pale Lager," which I particularly like and remember being common in Vienna, Austria, as well. Since we had woken up very early, we thought about taking a nap after lunch, but we were afraid of not waking up in time and missing the first afternoon. So, we chose not to sleep and carried on like zombies the rest of the day. The weather wasn't very inviting for a walk—the sky was full of clouds, completely covered, and the temperature was near 2°C, feeling like -1°C. We walked a bit along the riverbank, and the wind was cutting through our cheeks, which were the only exposed part of our bodies. Then we ventured into the city center, hoping to find at least a little protection from the wind. I let the others explore their tourist spots while we digested our lunch, and we also had a coffee to warm up a bit and lift our spirits, which were suffering from the cold.

Finally, later in the afternoon, I got the green light to lead the group, and since it was so cold, I thought it would be perfect to go to the taproom of "Sibeeria" 🥶. "Sibeeria" is a microbrewery in Prague that has been operating for a few years. In the taproom, we found about three options of "Czech Pale Lager," as well as IPAs and their variants, Sours, Imperial Stouts, and so on. However, they had an endless variety of canned and bottled labels, mostly from their own brand. With so many options, I decided to start with a tasting pack of 5 samples of 100mL. I chose all the "Czech Pale Lagers" first, since we were in their homeland, and then two other IPAs. With my BJCP exam studies more or less up to date, I noticed that even one labeled "Czech Premium Pale Lager" ended up being lighter in color, pale yellow, than one of the available "Czech Pale Lagers." Whether it’s premium or not actually has more to do with the amount of sugar in the beer's original extract and is only minimally related to the final alcohol content. However, the traditional premium versions usually use decoction, which gives a richer, almost amber color. Anyway, probably in the more craft scene, decoction is left aside (due to costs and time), and the beers end up being lighter. It’s hard to say right away in the first brewery, but any of them had the characteristic bitterness and the delicious aroma of Czech hops.

One of them, "Blaníkör", really pleased my palate, and with a quick bit of research, I found out it used a very light dry-hopping process (adding hops at the cold phase), which resulted in a burst of citrusy and herbal/grassy freshness. Interestingly, unlike the traditional Saaz hop—which is widely used and produced in the country—the hops used were Eris and Pluto, which honestly I don’t remember ever hearing about before. Apparently, they’re Czech hops as well. In any case, it’s always great to discover new ingredients, and it’s also cool to see a country with such a strong brewing tradition embracing modern techniques, even when making traditional styles—and getting delicious results. It was an excellent start. And the exhaustion didn’t let us go much further that evening. We decided to have an early dinner and head back to the hotel to catch up on sleep and make the most of the coming days. At dinner, I also tried an unfiltered Krusovice that lived up to the local reputation for great beers.

Second day in Prague

On the second day, we had the morning to enjoy the city center before changing hotels. And finally, the sun came out and gave us that extra boost of energy for a morning stroll. This time, we crossed the bridge over the Vltava River and walked up to Prague Castle. And of course, like any good castle, you have to climb a fair share of stairs to get to the top. The view is definitely worth it, but in my mind, the real reward was something else. We were getting closer to the Strahov Monastery—and of course, they have a brewery. After gently persuading the group to make a small detour, in about 10 minutes we were at "Pivovar Saint Norbert Strahov". It’s a brewery located within the monastery complex that has been operating since the year 2000, claiming to follow the age-old brewing traditions of monastic beer. I finally had the chance to try a "Czech Amber Lager". Pale lagers and even dark lagers are more commonly found—even here in Greece—but amber ones are harder to come by, so getting to drink one fresh from the tap was truly memorable. It had a very distinctive aroma and flavor, leaning toward an English Bitter but with the freshness of Czech hops. It’s a style I really enjoy, though I know it’s not everyone’s favorite. Still, it’s great to know it’s still out there.

We sat in the sun, and that first beer went down really smoothly. So much so that by the time I finished mine, I noticed my travel companions were still halfway through their glasses. So I figured I had time to try another one. For the first round, I had gone with the "Czech Amber Lager" because it’s a traditional local style. But there was a "Smoked Porter" on the list that had already caught my eye. So, naturally, that was my pick for the second round. It was a "Porter”—a dark beer that had been aged in whiskey barrels. The aroma carried a distinct, elegant wood note. And unlike many beers that go through spirit barrels, this one kept its ABV at a moderate 6%. On the palate, the wood tones blended beautifully with the malted whiskey notes, giving the beer an impressive complexity. All in all, a delightful surprise for the start of the day—a beer full of flavor, well-balanced, and easy to drink. If we had stayed longer, I probably would’ve gone for another pint, but we had to keep moving and go grab some lunch.

"Czech Amber Lager" in the left. "Smoked Porter" in the center. The classical interior of "U Flecku" and its delicious "Czech Dark Lager".

And since no one came up with a suggestion for lunch, I played my ace. One of the most traditional places in Prague that I definitely wanted to visit. I’m talking about "U Fleků". It’s one of the few breweries in Europe that has been brewing beer for about 500 uninterrupted years. And of course, that many years of tradition can only lead to great beer. Their best-selling beer is a "Czech Dark Lager" made with four different types of malt. Naturally, I couldn't order anything else. From the very first sip, we understood why this beer is so beloved. The notes of dark malts are very clear and balanced—bitter dark chocolate and a dark caramel almost reminiscent of Coke. But what surprised me the most was the mouthfeel: smooth and creamy, almost making you want to chew the beer—it was really delicious. The place also serves a wide variety of local dishes. This is more or less an example of what microbreweries used to be like in this region (and elsewhere too): almost always tied to a restaurant, serving their beer in large traditional halls with big tables that could even be shared. And if you're looking for the most traditional beers, these are the kinds of places to go. After lunch, we had to move to a different hotel.

The second hotel wasn’t in the city center, but of course I checked if there was a brewery nearby. After settling in, I took a nap and later in the afternoon headed out to find "Pivovar Kolčavka". It was a Sunday, in an area far from downtown, so I wasn’t expecting much activity. But then again, we’re in the country with the highest beer consumption per capita in the world, so I found the place to be fairly lively. Though it had a more modern look, the brewery also had an adjoining restaurant. But since it was still early, everyone was at the bar. It was a pleasant surprise—there really doesn’t seem to be such a thing as bad beer in this country. I had a lightly smoked beer, and a "Czech Premium Pale Lager" with extra hops. Czech hops usually have low bitterness potential, so the beer wasn’t overly bitter—especially for someone used to hoppier brews. Still, it had a noticeable bitterness and a hoppy aroma that made the experience worth it. On the way back, I stopped at a more traditional restaurant and had my first unfiltered "Pilsner Urquell" of the trip. I started to suspect that this might not be the best one I’d have—but we’ll get to that later.

Third and final day in Prague

On the third day, since all my travel companions were busy with a conference, the plan was 100% beer-focused. I checked which places I had pinned that opened early and started my beer exploration in the morning. The first spot I found open was "Bohemia Goose", in downtown Prague. It’s a brewery with all of its brewing equipment on display right in the taproom, in a modern and cozy setting. The restaurant also claims to specialize in goose and duck dishes. But it was too early for food—I was only interested in the beer. I always started with a "Bohemian Pilsner", and theirs had a deep golden, almost amber color, and the traditional creamy foam taking up about one-third of the glass. Everything as it should be: rich malt sweetness, fresh hops—very good. I noticed they also had a wheat beer on the menu. Some say that the style we now know as "Weissbier"—traditional in Germany—may have actually originated in the Bohemia region. So, I decided to give it a try. Unfortunately, the balance wasn’t great—it ended up being one of those beers that’s tough to finish. It lacked lightness, and I already felt full with a third of the glass still left. Maybe there’s a reason the style became famous in Germany and not in the Czech Republic, haha.

After that liter of beer before lunch, I figured a walk was in order. I headed toward Charles Square (Karlovo Náměstí)—the sun was out and the weather was nice. Then I made my way to Prague 2 (Prague is divided into numbered districts, kind of like neighborhoods), passed by the Basilica of St. Ludmila, and headed to "Pivovar Vinohradský". The beer journey continued, and once again I got to enjoy a "Czech Amber Lager" called "Jantorova 13º". Many Czech beers have a number at the end of their name, and no—it doesn’t indicate the alcohol content. It actually refers to the amount of sugar in the original beer extract, using the Plato scale. Simply put, 13 degrees Plato means that in one hundred grams of wort (the precursor to beer), there were 13 grams of sugar before fermentation. Once again, I was very pleased with the "Czech Amber Lagers". This combination of a more complex malt profile, well-balanced with the freshness of Czech hops, makes total sense. It enhances the perception of body, slows down your sipping, and lets you savor each gulp.

Since it was lunchtime, I decided to eat there as well. That gave me time—and carbs—to try a dessert beer. I was intrigued by a "Brut IPA" they had called "Less Sugar More Fun". And no, it’s not part of that wave of beers with fewer carbs, alcohol, and calories. It holds its 5.2% ABV precisely because it has higher attenuation. Attenuation refers to how thoroughly the yeast consumes the sugars in the wort to produce alcohol. In this beer, they used a special enzyme that converts sugars that normally aren't fermentable into fermentable ones, leaving almost no residual sugar in the final product. In other words, a beer that mimics the dryness of Brut sparkling wines. The hop selection also added to the dry sensation, with a mix of New Zealand and American hops. Light, easy to drink—and I imagine it could be dangerous on a hot summer day. That’s how we said goodbye to this brewery that’s definitely worth the walk outside Prague’s city center.

Since my next stop was a bit farther, I took the metro back to Republic Square. From there, I walked toward the river, because the next brewery was... a boat. That’s right—"Lod’ Pivovar" is a brewery installed inside a boat moored next to the Štefánik Bridge. Inside, we sat by the windows with a river view and sampled the house beers. Since I’d already had "Czech Pale" and "Czech Amber", it was time for a "Czech Dark Lager". A delicious dark beer, full of roasted aromas and flavors, with a bitterness that came not only from the hops but also from toasted caramel. On the entry level you’ll find just the bar and some mash tuns. But when I went to the restroom on the lower floor, I discovered the fermenters and the rest of the brewery. A very cool spot—definitely worth the visit.

The nice looking mug of "Czech Pale Lager" at the "Bohemia Goose"(left). The "goulash" served on bread loaf at the "U Tří růží" (center). A cold but nice view of the Republic Square at Prague (right).

I had to keep moving, as I still wanted to do some shopping and drop everything off at the hotel before heading out again for dinner. I liked the beers at "Sibeeria" so much that I went back there, this time to buy some to take home. After securing them at the hotel, I went off in search of my last beer of the trip. One of the places on my list that I hadn’t managed to visit yet was "U Tří růží". This is another one of the traditional breweries with an attached restaurant, right in the center of Prague. The decor has that rustic tavern feel and provides the perfect setting for a final toast. One dish that’s quite well known in this region is "goulash", and many restaurants serve it inside a bread loaf. For a cold night, it was the perfect farewell to Prague. Since I had already tried many of the traditional beers, this time I was tempted by a local take on a Belgian Dubbel: the "Monastic Special of St. Giles No. 4". A full-bodied beer that beautifully balances toasted malt and candy sugar sweetness character with yeast and hop-derived fruitiness. We wrapped up with a flourish.

Trip to and arrival in Pilsen

Our time in Prague had come to an end, and the next morning I had to catch a bus to Pilsen. It was the well-known Flixbus, which cost about €5 for a trip lasting one hour and twenty minutes. To be safe, I arrived early at the station and noticed it was located right in front of one of Prague’s most famous breweries—Staropramen. Since I had over half an hour to kill, I went for a walk and realized the brewery is truly massive. Unfortunately, they don’t offer tours on the weekend, so I had to settle for admiring it from the outside. When the time came, the ride was smooth, the bus wasn’t full, and for the price, it was absolutely worth it. I was still lucky with the weather and arrived in a sunny Pilsen around 12:30 p.m. It’s a very small city but steeped in brewing tradition—after all, this is where the "Pilsen" or "Pilsener" style was born. But of course, the best was still to come.

Since check-in wasn’t until 3 p.m., I walked around a bit and then looked for a place to have lunch. In smaller cities, we can afford to go straight to the central spots without worrying too much about tourist traps. That’s how I found "Srdcovka Corso". I went in without high expectations and left completely satisfied—not just with the food, but also with the beer. One well-known brewery from Pilsen is "Gambrinus", and I had already seen that my days here wouldn’t coincide with the brewery tour schedule 😢. But to my surprise, this restaurant had unpasteurized and unfiltered Gambrinus on tap. You’ll often find unfiltered beer, but unpasteurized is a bit rarer. This kind of service is only possible close to the brewery itself, since pasteurization is what gives beer a longer shelf life—though at a sensory cost. Maybe because I wasn’t expecting much, this turned out to be one of the best beers I had on the entire trip. As mentioned, pasteurization plays a big role in extending shelf life, so unpasteurized beer in its city of origin means freshness and all the flavor and aroma the brewers intended. In the case of a "Bohemian Pilsner", that means a rich malty character achieved through double or triple decoction, and that distinct bitterness perfectly balanced with the malt profile. The aroma, of course, was intense and full of herbal and lightly spicy hop notes. It was a promising start. I found myself as the last customer in the restaurant, savoring each sip and gazing at that golden beer with a sense of admiration and fulfillment. It was only when I left that I realized the whole restaurant staff was already having their lunch, and I had been holding them up, haha. Still, they were very friendly and never made me feel rushed.

I decided to spend two nights in Pilsen so I’d have enough time to explore both traditional breweries and some of the newer ones I’d spotted. So that first evening, I kicked things off at "Raven Pub City". "Pivovar Raven" has its main brewery and pub about ten minutes by car from Pilsen’s city center, but since they also have this location downtown, I went for the shortcut. Unfortunately for me, it was quiz night, so much of the pub was reserved for the event. Fair enough—it’s hard to keep a pub profitable on weekdays in a small town, and events like these help bring people in and strengthen the local social scene. What disappointed me a bit was the beer—not the beer itself, but the overall selection. We’re in a country with an incredibly rich brewing tradition, and seeing so many foreign styles (the kind you can find pretty much anywhere in the world) was a bit underwhelming. Especially when you have more than five taps. I tried their house Pale Lager, but it didn’t really impress. It wasn’t bad at all, but by this point, my standards had been raised pretty high by everything I’d already tasted. So we left the locals to enjoy their quiz night and went in search of the next great beer.

First beer in Pilsen, Gambrinus (left). Beers at the "Raven Pub City (center). Beers from "Pivovarská Krčma", that are produced by the historical "Knížecí pivovar Plasy".

We wandered a bit, lost while looking for the place. The map showed it in the middle of the block, so it was a bit tricky to figure out how to get in. But after walking around like headless chickens, we finally found the right entrance and arrived at "Pivovarská Krčma". Here we returned to a more traditional brewery/restaurant, and once again I got to enjoy a "Czech Dark Lager". Another one—delicious, velvety, very easy to drink—what a treat! On the way out, I also picked up a "Czech Amber Lager" to take home.

We continued our beer exploration, and since it was Champions League night, we wanted to watch "Atlético de Madrid" vs "Real Madrid". We headed to the well-known "Šenk Na Parkánu", which had a TV and the game was about to start. We spotted a table and asked if we could sit there, but since we were just two people, they initially wouldn’t let us sit at a table meant for at least four, right in front of the TV. Just as I was about to leave, the waiter came back and said we could take it—thank goodness! haha. We ate typical local food, watched the match, and drank unfiltered Pilsner Urquell. And... honestly, I wasn’t that impressed haha—but you’ll soon understand why.

Second Day in Pilsen

And we finally arrived at one of the most anticipated days of the trip: the day of the visit to "Pilsner Urquell". But why do you keep talking about "Pilsner Urquell" so much? Well… “Urquell” in Czech means “source” or “origin.” And yes, "Pilsner Urquell" was the FIRST of them all! Right here in this town, after a mass dumping of beer as a protest against the poor quality being brewed, a brewery was built and an operation was set in motion that led to the production of "Pilsner Urquell"—the Original Pilsner, the first of many, the beginning of a revolution in the beer industry.

But let’s go step by step. First, we made the most of another sunny day by walking around the city. We climbed to the top of the church tower—there were quite a few steps, but the view was absolutely worth it. When lunchtime came, our focus returned to beer, and we chose "Pivstro". I think I haven’t mentioned yet, but "pivo" is the Czech word for beer—so you can already guess what "Pivstro" is about. A unique place with a very interesting beer selection and a kitchen that truly lives up to the level of its beers. To give you an idea, I had a fish stew inspired by Brazilian "moqueca". And it was really good. We left very satisfied—great food, great beer, cozy atmosphere, and good music.

After lunch, I had to say goodbye to my travel companion 😢 and continue the journey solo. But that’s when one of the highlights of the entire trip came to ease the loneliness. It was finally time to visit the factory where "Pilsner Urquell" is brewed—or for those on familiar terms, "Pivovar Plzeňský Prazdroj". Honestly, I think this is much more worthwhile than paying €22 for the "Pilsner Urquell Experience" in Prague. Just hop on a Flixbus (€10 round trip) and visit the real factory for another €13. So basically, a €1 difference.

Now, why is it worth it? Yes, it’s a brewery tour, and includes a basic introduction to the ingredients and the beer-making process. But since we’re talking about a brewery with nearly 150 years of history, there’s also a full historical context and a display of museum-like items. But for a beer nerd like me, things really started to get exciting when we descended into the old tunnels where beer used to be fermented and matured. There are no fewer than NINE kilometers of tunnels—practically an underground city. Of course, we didn’t walk through the whole thing, but we got to see what matters.

Church at Pilsen main square. Yes, that is the tower I climed, step by step (right). Wood barrels with open fermentation. Note the yeast foam layer on top, amazing! (center). Glass of the best beer I ever had. Poured direct from the wood maturation vessel (right).

The mashing and boiling are all done in the ground-level facility. And nowadays, the entire process is carried out there. But, to satisfy beer nerds like me (kidding—sort of) and to ensure the best possible quality control, they maintain a small production using the traditional method: open fermentation in wooden barrels, followed by maturation in wooden barrels. As soon as we entered the fermentation room, the aroma gave it away. A slightly sour woody smell, which might sound off-putting—but for those who know what it means, it was mouthwatering! When we finally stepped up onto the platform and saw the open barrels with active fermentation, all that foam on top—I was grinning like a kid getting a new toy. This was a trip back in time. Nowadays we live in a world of sterility and sanitation—and thank goodness! But forgive me: since 1842, the good bugs here don’t let the bad ones thrive. And in the very next room, we got to taste this miracle of microbiology. Without a doubt, the best beer I’ve ever had. Poured straight from a wooden barrel—fresh, alive, bursting with the aromas and flavors that any beer lover dreams of. To me, this is what "Pilsner Urquell" is. All the others—be it in a bottle, can, or even the unfiltered draft—are mere imitations🤪.  Nothing compares to the balance this beer achieves here. I asked our guide about the difference between the "Pilsner Urquell" we drank here and the unfiltered version sold at bars in Pilsen, and she mentioned pasteurization. I’ve read in some blogs that the one served at local bars is also unpasteurized, but now I’m not so sure. And that makes all the difference—for better or worse.

The cruelest part of the tour? They only give you one glass haha. I found myself begging for more! And the guide kept throwing little challenges at us, and my answer was always the same: “Is it worth another glass of beer?” The answer was always no 😢. The visit ends at the brewery store, where you can find all sorts of "Pilsner Urquell products—unfiltered beer, bottle openers, t-shirts, jackets, you name it. In addition to their beer, they also sell brews from smaller brands that belong to the same group, and I grabbed a few to try at home.

You know how the nervous system works—after a big high comes the low. And with the sadness of knowing I wouldn’t taste that magical beer again anytime soon, I had to move on. The ticket I’d purchased also included entry to the Beer Museum. It’s next to the same restaurant we had dinner at the night before, "Šenk Na Parkánu", and at the end of the tour, you’re entitled to another unfiltered "Pilsner Urquell". But after trying the subterranean version... nothing else made sense anymore HAHAHAHA.

But man cannot live on "Pilsners" alone, so I went looking for other beers to help ease my momentary heartbreak. That’s how I ended up at "KEGzistence". Another bar in central Prague with a wide selection of beers, mostly Czech. I went for a tasting flight of three beers, and one of them truly surprised me. It was a dark "NEIPA" (New England India Pale Ale). I didn’t even know that was possible. A wild blend of dark malts and chocolate notes, with a hoppy aroma and flavor that reminded me of coconut and tropical fruit. And everything was incredibly well-balanced. When I ordered it, I hadn’t noticed it was a dark beer—and when I tasted it, it was totally outside the box. It’s been nearly a month since that moment, but whenever I think of this stop, I remember that beer. It was "Sunrise in Hell" by Tam Tam Brewing—absolutely worthy of an honorable mention on this trip.

Fully convinced that my time in the Czech Republic had already far exceeded expectations, there was only one last dance left—a final beer-soaked dinner. On my farewell to Prague, I mentioned that the bus station was right in front of the "Staropramen" brewery, and I hadn’t yet tried their beer. Back in Pilsen, I’d noticed a restaurant near where I was staying, covered in "Staropramen" branding. So that’s where I went—I sat down at "Potrefená Husa", had an unfiltered "Staropramen", and asked for the check on my time in the Czech Republic.

In the end, I was left with a huge sense of fulfillment. Tasting classic Czech Lagers" straight from the source, drinking "Pilsner Urquell" in its purest, most glorious form, and experiencing a bit of this country that breathes beer. There’s a bit of disappointment too—seeing that in many newer microbreweries, IPAs, NEIPAs, and DIPAs take up as much or even more space on tap than the traditional Czech styles. I imagine it’s a way to stand out, since Pale, Amber, and Dark Lagers are already present in most traditional brewery-restaurants. Maybe for the locals, it’s all become a bit of the same. But I wish I had seen more of the new generation revisiting those traditional styles and adding their own twists—perhaps sparking a renaissance for the style itself. I only saw that at "Sibeeria", with their "Blaníkör", and I brought two cans home that I’ll drink drop by drop. Of course, it was only five days and two cities, so my sample isn’t representative of the whole country. Still, the balance was overwhelmingly positive—and the desire to return is very real.

But that’s all for now. As soon as I can, I’ll write up the German leg of BrewVenture#1. If you made it this far—thank you so much, and cheers! 🍻