BJCP Styles sorted by history: Pilsner - Czech Pale Lager & Czech Premium Pale Lager
Today, we begin a more specific study of the BJCP beer styles. As I mentioned in this post, I’ll try to follow the system of styles classified by history. In this classification, the first group of styles is called Pilsner. And yes, there’s some confusion between Pilsner and Lager, or rather, an indiscriminate use as if they were the same thing. In fact, all styles within this category are Lagers. And this is important to understand: every Pilsner is a Lager, but not every Lager is a Pilsner. As I described in another post, Lager is a type of fermentation used in various styles, including Pilsner. But, beyond the Pilsners we’ll discuss now, there’s a wide amount of Lagers we’ll cover in the future.
The Pilsner style was created in the Czech Republic, specifically in the city of Pilsen. And Pilsner beer literally means beer produced in Pilsen (no shit, Scherlock!?). The creation of the style is attributed to Josef Groll, a Bavarian German, who was recruited for a grand project in Pilsen. We’re talking about 1842, when this area was part of the Austrian Empire, soon to become the Austro-Hungarian Empire. At the time, Lager fermentation was already used mainly in the neighboring region of Bavaria, though the most popular beers were still brownish/reddish. Pilsner beer was the first light-colored beer in that region. The population was dissatisfied with the quality of the beer being produced, so a thorough investigation of contemporary brewing was conducted for the construction of the new brewery. Then, the magic was in Josef Groll’s hands; thanks to the local water’s properties, the quality of barley grains, the character of the Pilsner malt produced in the new brewery, Saaz hops grown in the same region, and yeast brought from Germany, he created a product that still influences more than 90% of the world’s beer production today.
And the best part is that this product is still on the market: Pilsner Urquell. At the time, there was no major movement to patent the recipe, and with its success, other brands began producing similar beers not only in that region of the world. In German (the language of the Empire), Urquell means "source" or "origin," and the name Pilsner Urquell came to identify the first, or the Original Pilsner! I’ve gone on quite a bit about the historical aspect, but I think it’s worth it, as this style really shaped the brewing industry. I’ll stop here, though, and promise to share more details after visiting Pilsen on the FIRST BREWVENTURE!"
On the Pilsner category of the BJCP we can find the following styles:
Czech Pale Lager;
Czech Premium Pale Lager;
German Pils;
Historical Beer: Pre-prohibition Lager
German Leichtbier
As it all started in the Czech Republic, it’s obvious that they are the first representatives of the style. Czech Pale Lagers are the most consumed style in their country of origin nowadays. It’s believed that when Pilsner Urquell (a Czech Premium Pale Lager) was created, Josef Groll also produced a slightly weaker beer, similar to Czech Pale Lagers. In other words, they have less body, less alcohol, and a slightly less intense sensory profile than their premium counterparts. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a sample to taste around here, but since they’re a lighter version of Czech Premium Pale Lagers, it’s not too difficult to adapt the knowledge. Among Czech Premium Pale Lagers, I found three examples described as commercial examples by the BJCP: Primator Premium Lager, Radegast Ryze Horká 12, and, of course, our beloved Pilsner Urquell. To add a bit of spicy, I also tasted Budweiser Budvar, which, although not a BJCP commercial example, is another well-known Czech Lager that’s easy to find here where I live. Thus, I evaluated it just like the others, considering as a Czech Premium Pale Lager. And here is our lineup:
And that is how they look on a glass, or, for the BJCP aspiring judges, appearance!
According to the BJCP guide, in terms of appearance, they should have a medium yellow to deep golden color, with bright to very clear clarity. The head should be white, creamy, dense, and long-lasting. I didn’t notice any flaws in appearance. Right away, we noticed that Budweiser Budvar stands out slightly in terms of color, being a bit lighter than the others, but the guide’s description mentions medium yellow, which I’d consider appropriate. This could suggest something about the selection of malts or even the use of adjuncts (other sugar sources besides malt sugar). However, we’re talking about a Czech Lager, and they are famous and proud of their 100% Pilsner malt grain bill. Most likely, it’s a more limited decoction. Decoction is a process where, during malt mashing (the beginning of the brewing process), part of the malt is transferred to another vessel with a higher temperature, where the famous Maillard reactions occur, adding color and flavor to the beer. Most Czech Lagers use a double decoction protocol, while Pilsner Urquell has always used a triple decoction protocol.
Moving on to aroma, according to the BJCP, it should be medium to high in rich malty character (bread aroma), with floral, herbal, or spicy hops between medium-low and medium-high. In Budweiser Budvar, a skunky aroma (yes, the same as Heineken) hindered the assessment. I ended up only perceiving this aroma and a bit of herbal hops. Skunk aroma is a known flaw caused by light exposure (light-struk), especially in green or clear bottles. It may not be a characteristic of the beer itself but rather of the sample in front of us—or more precisely, in our glass. In the case of Radegast, the bready aroma and herbal hops were present but at a low intensity for the style. Additionally, the hop aroma profile also had earthier notes that aren’t typical for this style. Primator showed a strong bready malt aroma, with medium to low herbal/floral hops, which fits the style well. In the case of Pilsner Urquell, I’ve already tried samples with a more intense aroma; happens to everybody. Still, a greater complexity in the malty aroma is observed in this beer compared to the others. Not surprisingly, since this is the beer that originated the style.
Now, let’s talk about flavor. According to the BJCP, the malt should be rich and complex bread-like, with a pronounced yet soft and rounded bitterness, with floral and spicy hop flavors. And this is where Pilsner Urquell made things difficult for everyone else. The result they achieve is spectacular. It’s very easy for bitterness to be pronounced but become unpleasant by the end of a glass. And I like to say that Pilsner Urquell’s bitterness fills the room, making you genuinely happy and craving another sip (that’s already mouthfeel and overall impression, sorry, haha). The malt can also have a slight caramel hint, and the bitterness should never be harsh. In terms of flavor, the Pilsner Urquell sample I tasted delivered everything. Then, Primator came closest in flavor profile, especially with the malt, though its bitterness wasn’t as pronounced as the style calls for. Radegast had a lower-than-expected malt profile for the style, as its sweetness was less complex, slightly disrupting the balance. Here, the bitterness was also mild but pleasant and floral/herbal. Finally, Budweiser Budvar also had a lower-than-expected malt profile for the style. Again, the skunky aroma affected the experience, though the bitterness was medium to high and pleasant.
According to the BJCP scoresheet, we should also evaluate mouthfeel and overall impression of the beer. I won’t get into these aspects yet, as I’d first like to make a post explaining what they describe; stay tuned! So, we conclude our evaluation of Czech Premium Pale Lagers here. This is one of the few styles where we have the commercial example that originated the style to use as a reference, which makes the process much easier. Additional comments I’d make are that Budweiser Budvar resembles an International Pale Lager more than a Czech Premium Pale Lager. Everything could have been due to the skunky aroma, and I hope to taste a sample closer to what leaves the factory soon. Lastly, Primator was closer to the style’s requirements than Radegast—but only in these samples tasted! We must always consider the possibility of flavor and aroma loss over time. For that reason, it’s best to drink fresh beers! And no, I’m not referring to temperature, but rather to the time factor. Beer is made to be enjoyed, not stored! In the next session, we’ll talk about the other examples in the category: German Pils, Pre-Prohibition Lager, and Leichtbier. See you next time!
